Makaronia tou Fournou Recipe: Cypriot Baked Pasta

Makaronia tou fournou, literally "pasta of the oven", is the baked pasta dish that turns up at almost every Cypriot family gathering: thick tubes of macaroni, a layer of minced meat scented with cinnamon and mint, and a deep, golden blanket of béchamel. What makes it unmistakably Cypriot is the halloumi grated through the pasta and the sauce, which gives it a salty, savoury flavour you will not find in other versions.

It takes a little organisation, but it feeds a crowd, reheats well and tastes just as good the next day, which is exactly why it is such a staple in Cypriot homes.

Where does makaronia tou fournou come from?

Baked pasta with meat and béchamel is found across the Greek-speaking world under the name pastitsio, and Cypriots use both names. The word pastitsio is generally thought to come from the Italian pasticcio, a term for various baked pies and pasta dishes, which hints at the dish's links to Venetian and wider Italian cooking in the eastern Mediterranean. The modern version with a thick béchamel topping is often credited to early 20th-century Greek cookery, but the precise history is not well documented and should be taken as a likely story rather than settled fact.

What is clear is that Cyprus has made the dish its own. The Cypriot version tends to use very little tomato in the meat sauce and a generous amount of mint, and it relies on halloumi, the island's own cheese, where Greek recipes might use kefalotyri or parmesan-style cheeses. A pinch of cinnamon in the meat is also common, part of a long tradition of using sweet spices in savoury Cypriot dishes.

In everyday life, makaronia tou fournou is a family dish. It is the tray that comes out for Sunday lunch, a name-day celebration, a christening or a wedding buffet, and the one grandparents often make in quantity so that everyone leaves with a portion. The Cyprus Tourism Organisation's food guide describes it as a family favourite that can be eaten hot or cold, often alongside a fresh village salad. It is also a familiar sight in the lunchtime cabinets of bakeries and cafés across the island.

Which ingredients do you need and where can you buy them in Cyprus?

Exact quantities are in the recipe card above. These are the ingredients that matter most and where to find them.

The pasta

Look for the long, thick, hollow pasta sold specifically for this dish. In Cypriot supermarkets it is usually labelled for makaronia tou fournou or pastitsio, often as number 2, and is found alongside the other dried pasta in Alphamega, Sklavenitis, Lidl, Metro and most local mini-markets. It holds its shape during baking and gives the characteristic tube pattern when you cut through the layers. If you are cooking outside Cyprus, bucatini or a thick ziti are the closest substitutes.

Halloumi

Halloumi is essential. Cyprus halloumi has been registered as a Protected Designation of Origin in the EU since 2021, so anything sold under that name in the EU must be made on the island to the traditional specification, based on sheep's and/or goat's milk, with cow's milk often added. For grating, a firmer, slightly aged halloumi (sometimes sold as mature or "xero") is ideal because it grates finely and has more flavour. Fresh halloumi works too; grate it on the coarse side. Our guide to halloumi and other Cypriot foods explains the different styles.

How do you get makaronia tou fournou right?

What are the best variations?

• Chicken mince: A lighter version that many households now make. Add a little more olive oil and keep the cinnamon and mint.
• Vegetarian: Replace the meat with a thick sauce of lentils or finely chopped mushrooms, cooked with onion, a little tomato, cinnamon and mint.
• Extra cheese: Some cooks add a thin layer of grated halloumi directly over the meat before the top layer of pasta.
• Lighter béchamel: Using semi-skimmed milk works, but the topping will be less rich. Do not reduce the eggs, or it will not set.
• Individual portions: Assemble in small ovenproof dishes and reduce the baking time to 30–35 minutes.

What should you serve with it?

Makaronia tou fournou is a complete meal on its own, so keep the sides fresh and simple:

• A Cypriot village salad with tomato, cucumber, cabbage or lettuce, onion, olives and a lemon and olive oil dressing.
• Thick yoghurt on the side, which some families enjoy with a slice.
• Olives and pickled vegetables for a salty, sharp contrast.
• A glass of local wine, such as a light red from one of the island's indigenous grapes.

How do you store, freeze and reheat it?

• Fridge: Once cooled, cover the dish or transfer portions to containers. It keeps for 3–4 days.
• Freezer: Cut into portions, wrap tightly and freeze for up to 3 months. Freezing in individual squares makes weekday lunches easy.
• Reheating: Thaw overnight in the fridge if frozen. Reheat covered with foil in a 160°C fan / 180°C conventional oven for 20–30 minutes, uncovering for the last 5 minutes to crisp the top. A microwave works for single portions, though the topping will soften.
• Cold: Many Cypriots happily eat it at room temperature, especially in summer, which is part of why it is such a popular dish for picnics and gatherings.

Where can you try makaronia tou fournou in Cyprus?

You do not have to look far:

• Bakeries and cafés in towns and villages often sell slices from a large tray at lunchtime, especially on weekdays.
• Restaurants serving mageirefta, the home-style cooked dishes of the day, frequently list it alongside dishes such as stifado and kleftiko.
• Village tavernas sometimes include it in a traditional meze or offer it as a dish of the day.
• Family celebrations. If you are invited to a Cypriot name day, christening or wedding buffet, there is a good chance a tray will be on the table.

For more Cypriot dishes to cook at home, browse all our recipes or visit our Food & drink section.